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Issue Number #39
Issue Date Spring 2007
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Title Warming to the Ice Plants - Part 2
Author Phil Watson

This is the second part of this article. Part one (Winter 2007 edition) introduced some of the fascinating attributes of the ice plants, whilst part two discusses the interesting culinary and medicinal history of the plants. (Ed.)

The tasty "Greens" were highly valued by early Explorers

As mentioned in the introduction, Ice Plants form an important historic connection with our Tasmanian convict ancestry. This arose as a consequence of the 1768 voyage of Captain Cook's to observe the transit of Venus. He satisfied his scurvy-stricken crew's desperate need to savour fresh greens by harvesting the pot herb NZ Spinach, T. tetragoniodes from the NZ's shoreline. Following discovery along the Australia coast by Cook and other explorers, of large swards of both T. tetragoniodes and Botany Bay Greens, T. implexicoma, they soon came to rely on these greens as dietry necessities, to enhance their Spartan rations. It is interesting to note, if the early explorers and colonists had shown a little appreciation for the Aboriginal way of life, they would soon have selected today's popular bush tucker treats but instead limited their choice to only those indigenous plants that reflected the image of English vegetables. Besides the Ice Plants these included Sea Celery Apium prostratum and Botany Bay Greens Atriplex cinerea.

So impressed was Sir Joseph Banks with these Ice Plants, he sent their seeds to Kew Gardens from where it rapidly gained favour in high society cuisine as a summer spinach. In 1779 Bank's fondness for this plant's ability to provide reliable quantities of nutritious greens, was portrayed exuberantly in the House of Common's inquiry delving into the relative suitability of Australia compared to West Africa as a convict-based colony. He obviously left a strong impression and the rest is now history.

Photo: Carprobrotus rossii by Richard Barnes

"Pigface" was Tasmania's first Bush tucker?

Tasman's voyage of 1642 was not only historically significant as the arrival of the first explorers in Tasmania, but also the collection of "Greens" (recorded as a Mesembryanthemum sp) by his crew's shore for detachment from the banks of the Boomer Creek flowing into Marion Bay. This collection heralded the start of the current bush tucker bonanza. The collection of what is considered to be Carprobrotus rossii was reported to be "not unlike a certain plant growing at Cabode Bona Esperance"(Cape Town).

Many diaries of early explorers and settlers not only record positive entries on the edibility of these "Greens" but also draw attention to the unique strawberry-fig like flavour of the Native Pigface's fruits. During the late 18th century a number of explorers referred to the harvesting of Ice Plants for pot herbage or edible fruits. These included Bligh's 1788 voyage on the Bounty in Adventure Bay, Bruny Island and D' Entrecasteaux's 1793 voyage on the Esperance in Recherche Bay. During this voyage he noted that "the fruit proved a delicacy with the New Hollanders (Aborigines) and resembled the Hottentot's Fig of South Africa (Mesembryanthemum edule) except that the flowers were not yellow but reddish purple". Settlers at Collin's first settlement at the "Camp" (Risdon Cove) collected of Ice Plants for nutritious "Greens" whilst inland explorer Edward John Eyre partook of Pigface fruits freely noting the ripe fruit was rich, sweet and refreshing in hot weather.

Valuable "People's Plants" supplying food and medicine

It was apparent that explorers and colonists developed a strong desire for the tasty and nutritious green foliage of Tetragonia species. This attraction continued to gain momentum over the next two centuries with these pot herbs being cultivated in European gardens. They have now become an heirloom vegetable, worthy of any menu especially being suited to stir fries, spinach dishes and quiches. Of course, they also prove just as attractive to wildlife; hence protection from browsing is required, during their establishment. Once growing vigorously the wild life grazing can be used to advantage by acting as marsupial pruning shears to limit their rampant growth! It is important to be aware that, like rhubarb and silver beet, it is best not too over indulge in them due to the low levels of oxalates and saponins existing in the succulent leaves and stems.

In relation to the luscious fruits of Carprobrotus rossii, local Aboriginals eagerly awaited their summertime ripening. Aboriginal family bands would often establish camp next to broad expanses of fruiting pigface in order to supplement their fish and seafood diets with otherwise distinctly difficult to find harvestable offerings of summer ripening bush tucker. They not only enjoyed the fruits but also cooked leaves of this native Pig Face or at times the Round Leaf Noon flower Disphyma crassifolium to accompany their fire pit-roasted possum, roo or echidnas etc. Beyond their bush tucker attributes, the finger-like leaves and stems when squeezed ooze a gel-like sap which acted as a soothing lotion in much the same way as Aloe vera does today. As an aside these bulky, sappy leaves have proven problematical for all those plant collectors and students who have attempted to use plant presses to dry and press specimens. They are botanist nightmare! When exploring the world wide range of extraordinary plant uses attributed to Ice Plants, it would be remiss not to mention the captivating mind and mood altering qualities of the South African species known locally as "Kanna" Sceletium tortuosum. This mood-altering plant (attributed to the alkaloid "mesembrine") has been used by hunter-gathers and pastoralists from prehistoric times, to elevate mood and decrease anxiety, stress and tension. Amazingly larger doses have no severe adverse affects, as it induces a euphoric state enabling pastoralists to decrease thirst and hunger or for its application as a local anaesthetic and analgesic for tooth extraction. Traditionally prepared by crushing the succulent plant before sun drying prior to chewing, smoking, inhaling as snuff or brewing as a tea, it is an important children sedative and has been effectively used by indigenous healers to withdraw alcoholics from their addiction. Even now the plant may be called onse droe drank- "our dry liquor". Although once widely traded in the South African Cape provenance and stocked in trading stores, inventories of wild plants have dwindled due to over harvesting and habitat destruction. This has sadly resulted in its replacement by alcohol, tobacco and cannabis. It is pleasing to note that, using only cultivated rather than wild harvested materials, currently phyto-pharmaceuticals from Sceletium are being extracted for clinical trials in readiness for the international market.

Finally it is worth reflecting on another South African Pig Face look alike known as "Khadi Root" Khadia acutipetala. Its fleshy rootstock provides an alternative yeast source to act as the key fermentation agent in brewing a distinctively flavoured, yet extremely prized beer known as Khadi.


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